Island Hot Scots
July 1996
Five very hot days in South-West Scotland and Arran
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 Day
1: Cairnsmore of Fleet
We drove up the M6, taking the Stranraer road from Gretna, and
headed for Newton Stewart, where we would be staying the
night. In the meantime our objective was Cairnsmore of Fleet,
at 2329 ft. a significant height to the north-east of the Cree
estuary.
We parked near the somewhat stunted viaduct and walked through
Cairnsmore and out onto the fell, which is somewhat afforested in
its lower reaches. The fairly level, stony summit
 provided
a warm resting place for a few pleasant minutes, before we began
our descent via Eastman's Cairn and the wilderness to the west. I
have to admit that our routefinding went somewhat awry here, and
it was more by good luck than good judgement that we found out way
back to the car |
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Day 2: The Merrick
We
took our leave of Newton Stewart, and headed for Glen Trool. The
path to the Merrick, at 2675 ft. the highest point in south-west
Scotland, is clearly signposted, following the attractive cascades
of the Buchan Burn, then heading off into the forest past Culsharg
and out onto the open fell. The ascent to the subsidiary summit of
Benyellary is a steady pull, rewarded with fine views and a good
stroll to the main summit of the Merrick.
We
descended to the east, to the fine sandy shores of Loch Enoch, and
could have spent several idyllic hours there cooling our feet -
until we began to consider how long it would take to drive to
Ardrossan, where we were booked on the day's last crossing to
Brodick.
"Come
on, we're going"...
...and our lazy afternoon turned into a route march back to the
car followed by a frantic drive north to the ferry. We arrived at
the tail of the queue, and were called forward onto the
"Caledonian Isles" before we had time to put on the
handbrake... |
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 Day
3: Arran - Goat Fell
The highest point of Arran's northern hills is Goat Fell,
2866ft. - not a Munro, but every bit a mountain, with high craggy
outcrops of crumbly pink granite.
We
set off up Glen Rosa on a day even hotter than the past few days.
The stream here runs clear along its salmon-pink granite bed,
looking terribly inviting every step of the way. Leaving the
stream at the head of the valley, we ascended to
"the
saddle" - the col overlooking Glen Sannox to the north-east -
a superb spot for lunch.
The climb now is steep, and a little exposed too, and the
rotting granite makes for some exciting moments. The final ridge
is formed of a line of fine rocky tors; the summit, the highest
point of the island, is marked by a cairn and toposcope - which
sadly was of little use, the heat having caused a dense haze, so
that we could barely make out any of the interesting features
displayed. |
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Day
4: Lazing
Well, it was just too hot for anything else! We drove around
the island, stopping first at Lochranza, where we watched the
ferry depart for Claonaig on the Kintyre peninsular. I had
followed the Ardrossan - Arran - Kintyre route some years earlier,
when I took the family around the Western Isles, using a Cal-mac
"Island Hopscotch" ferry rover ticket - great fun!
Next
stop was Blackwaterfoot on the western coast, where we walked the
2 miles around the shore to the King's Cave, an interesting sea
cave - but not really a suitable subject for photography, unlike
the orchids which grew in profusion along the path.
We
drove on down to the southern tip of the island at Kildonan, where
we had just sufficient energy to explore the rocks on the shore,
catching crabs in the pools whose water was becoming warm in the
baking heat. The tiny islet of Fladda lies just to the south, and
further away can be seen (just) the remarkable dome of
"Paddy's milestone" - Ailsa Craig. |
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 Day
5: Homeward - via Wanlockhead and Green Lowther
Taking the first sailing from Brodick, we crossed once more to
Ardrossan and headed towards Kilmarnock and the Nith valley. At
Mennock we took the twisting hill road to Wanlockhead. The
village, at around 1500ft above sea level, provides an ideal
springboard for a short walk onto the hill, and our short
excursion to the summit of Green Lowther, at 2403ft, proved little
more than a very pleasant stroll. Sadly, once again a heat haze
limited the more distant
 views
somewhat, as the sun beat down from a deep blue sky.
And that was it - an excellent little outing completed an
excellent five day trip - all that remained was the long drive
home again.
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Books and maps:-
Cairnsmore of Fleet is on Explorer 319 "Galloway
Forest Park South", and Landranger 83 Newton Stewart and Kirkcudbright.
The Merrick is on Explorer 318 (the North sheet) and Landranger 77 "Dalmellington
and Glen Trool".
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