Berwyn: Cwm Maen Gwynedd

February 2005

Mist and wind on the lonely heights of the Welsh border country.

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Tyn-y-FfriddWe'd booked the first Friday in February some time in advance - "lets hope for a decent day". Well, it was a decent day - though the weather wasn't quite all we'd hoped for...

Climbing towards Mynydd TarwThe Berwyn mountains rise to a good height - 2712' in the case of Cadair Berwyn, our objective. However, they are not much visited, and there are few paths. Our route, nearly 9 miles, would at best follow faintly trodden ways, until reaching the summit ridge where there is a reasonably clear path. And we never saw a soul, from leaving the car until we were within half a mile of it again on our return.

Crags on the ridgeOur outward route followed that described in Walking Britain - walk x031 - starting from near Tyn-y-Ffridd Walkers in the windfarm, where there is space for a couple of cars by the bridge over the Afon Iwrch. A reasonable route takes one up the side of a plantation to the crest of a long ridge running eastwards from the main Berwyn summit ridge - starting with the 2230' Mynydd Tarw, crossing 2265' Foel Wen and 2431' Tomle, before climbing steeply onto the summit ridge.

...spotlights on distant hills...The day had started rather dull, with mist over the highest ground and a biting south-westerly wind. A rocky crest provided shelter for lunch Peaty pool on the ridgenear the top of Foel Wen; our fingers were numb with cold by the time the sandwiches had been disposed of. There was clearly some hope for the weather - breaks here and there in the cloud produced spotlights on distant hills, and at one point a clear view opened up, across the Dee valley to the north, to the distant Vale of Clwyd. On the horizon, buildings could be seen around Rhyl and Prestatyn, some 30 miles distant.

  Cadair Berwyn  View back towards Cwm Maen Gwynedd and the ridge  Looking back - the summit ridge

The weather is improving...As frequently happens on these trips, the mist cleared from the summit from time to time as we approached the ridge - only to close in on us and restrict what could have been a tremendous view westwards. Glimpses of the area to the north-west, and the A5's route to Holyhead, gave us some clues as to what we might have seen.

  White rock and the view to the north-east  Sunshine in Cwm Maen Gwynedd  Sunlight and shade

Cwm Maen GwyneddWe paused at the top for long enough to say we'd been there, then, with no sign of an immediate improvementLast look up the lonely valley in visibility, we retraced our steps. An ancient pathway crosses the main Berwyn ridge from the Llandrillo area, and descends into Cwm Maen Gwynedd. So did we - and what a relief it was to get out of the wind. The summit, of course, was by now clearly visible, and remained so for the rest of our walk, back down this quiet, lonely valley to Tyn-y-Ffridd and the car.

Books and Maps:- The walk illustrated is shown in its entirety on both maps -

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