The
Cuillin Ridge, on the Isle of Skye, represents for many the most
dramatic mountain scenery in the British Isles. Without a doubt, it is
one of the least accessible. Several of its summits are beyond the
reach of walkers; others (see
Sgurr nan Gillean) are
accessible only after some fairly hairy hand-and-foot scrambling. One,
however, is relatively easy (if 3143', starting from sea level, and 10
miles round trip is what one calls "easy") - and that is Bruach na
Frithe. Once again with my son in tow, eager for another day like than
one two years previously, we headed for the hills.
We started from Sligachan with the classic view ahead
- the three fine peaks of the northern end of the ridge. Left-most is
Sgurr nan Gillean, the "hill of the young men", while centre-stage is
Am Basteir ("the executioner") with its distinctive tooth hanging like
an axe on its right flank. And on the right - no, not Bruach na Frithe,
but Sgurr a Bhasteir, on a subsidiary ridge. Our objective is actually
hidden from sight behind this latter peak, despite its greater height.
The
walk from the inn follows the Bealach a'Mhaim footpath to Glenbrittle,
climbing gently to the summit of this path (the bealach...) then
striking left into the Fhionn Choire. The mountains crowd in quickly
in this stony hollow, as the path climbs steadily to reach the ridge
between Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe, with very fine views across
to Sgurr nan Gillean and the Basteir tooth. Finally, the ridge proper,
with the truly (but not literally) stunning views of the main Cuillin
Ridge, and the summit.
Unlike
our walk two years previously, when we were quite alone on the summit
of Sgurr nan Gillean, there were other walkers and climbers present,
enjoying the magnificent views on this clear August day. But Skye is
not the English Lake District - and Bruach na Frithe is not Helvellyn
- they were relatively few, and quiet. The scenery here tells its own
tale - no need for noisy chatter!
Books and maps:-
Ralph Storer's book is a superb guide to walks all over the island,
for all abilities. Highly recommended for anyone visiting Skye - lots
of short outings to fascinating little corners where you'll never see
another soul all day, as well as the "great" walks and scrambles
; "Leaving Sligachan - cottage and Marsco")
;)
; "On the Sgurr a'Bhasteir ridge - view to the summit")
; "Offspring and Am Basteir")
; "We've reached the main ridge - view to Elgol and Sleat")
; "Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir from the ridge")
;)
; "Am Basteir and the tooth")
; "There's a man up there - climber on the tooth, magnified from the main picture above")
; "View down a gully to Glenbrittle")
; "The \"Pinnacle Ridge\" of Sgurr nan Gillean")