"I'll
give you returns - they're cheaper than singles" replied the conductor
on the train, the 9.46 from Knighton. The train, just a single
carriage,
provides
a service between Shrewsbury and Swansea, taking just under 4 hours
for the leisurely and scenic journey through central Wales. We would
be on it for no more than 12 minutes, travelling to the
next-stop-but-one, Llangynllo station, high in the hills above the
village of the same name, and an excellent place to start this walk.
Four red kites wheeled above the hillside opposite - surely a good
omen for the day?
Glyndwr's
Way stretches for 132 miles between Knighton and Welshpool, via
Machynlleth. Our walk today would provide a fine introduction to the
route, across the high grassy uplands west of Knighton. The weather
had threatened some drizzle - after a frosty
start
at home, low cloud drifted across and made us use the windscreen
wipers on the journey to Knighton, then continued to streak the train
windows as we climbed into the hills. We put the waterproofs on as we
began our walk - which seemed to ensure that, after the first few
yards, it cleared and remained dry for the rest of the day.

There
are fine views in all directions - the path stays at a high level
until the approach to Knighton - with views to the Shropshire hills to
the north and east, and the 2000' dome of Radnor Forest (with cloud
clinging to the summit plateau) to the south. About halfway, the view
opened up toward Knucklas, where the viaduct we had crossed earlier
could be seen.
My 1:25,000 map showed the last mile or so into Knighton
along (mostly quiet) roads - since it was printed, a new route has
been waymarked, following a mostly pleasant (if somewhat muddy) route
through woodland on the north side of Garth Hill until the outskirts
of Knighton are reached. From here, the waymarkers have worked hard to
create a route through the various alleyways and lanes, bringing
walkers to the top of the steep and narrow High Street.
We walked the short way back to the car, to remove
muddy boots, and headed back
into Knighton in search of a bite to eat and a well-earned pint. We
found six pubs / hotels - but only one serving food, in small, smoky
and crowded bar / lounges. We tried elsewhere - but of the others,
only one was open - and it offered nothing beyond the usual crisps and
nuts. The aroma from the chip shop a little lower down the High Street
beckoned - so it was fish and chips for three, and they were very good
too...
Books and Maps:-
The walk is wholly contained on all three maps -
there's quite a big overlap between sheets 137 and 148...