Yes, it was a camping trip (never again!)Wasdale wanderings

July 1987

Tallest mountain, smallest church,
deepest lake, biggest liar*!

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Day 1: The Screes

Lingmell Gill, at the start of the walk  Starting to ascend, near Brackenclose  Wasdale Head from the path to Illgill Head

Crags on the ridgeHigh above the lake (I wouldn't have stood there....)The hills in this walk are Illgill Head and Whin Rigg - but the highlight of the route is the low level scramble along the eastern shore of Wastwater, below the famous screes. Apart from the precipitous crags above the lake, the hills are unexceptional, apart from some fine views.

Level with the foot of the lake, a path descends beside Greathall Gill, and then joins the lakeside path. The route now runs a little above the waterline, up here and down there, sometimes firm, sometimes a little bit loose, sometimes crossing huge boulders - the sort of walk where time passes quickly. All too The lakeside pathsoon we were back to "normal" paths, and making our way back to the campsite.

Time for a clean-up, and a well earned pint at the Wasdale Head Inn, where the "biggest liar" was once the landlord....


Sty Head tarn, from the path to the traverseOn the Gable traverseDay 2: Gable traverse

Not a great day for the tops - cloudy and threatening rain - so we aimed for Sty Head, there taking the path which skirts around Great Gable, an ideal pursuit for a grey day. There are some similarities to the previous day's wandering, only with far more ups and downs....

Misty view into WasdaleWe skirted the steep scree slopes above Wasdale until we gained the Moses' Trod path, and at Beck View into EnnerdaleHead took the path towards the summit. The weather had improved a little, but there weren't any views to be had from the top. So we dropped back to Windy Gap, thence down Aaron slack to Sty head, and retraced our steps back to Wasdale Head.


First few yards of the Black Sail pathPeaty pool near the hause, Black Sail passDay 3: Mosedale horseshoe

A fine day can be had by traversing the fells which form a horseshoe shape around Mosedale, which branches off Wasdale at Wasdale Head. On gaining the ridge, the path then turns towards Pillar, the highest point of the walk. Two routes are possible - we took the "alternative", the High Level On the High Level route, climbing beside Pillar Rockroute which contours below the ridge, high above the Ennerdale forests, before ascending steeply beside Pillar Rock.

A hazy view of Ennerdale  A rare sighting of the author, on the summit of Pillar  Mosedale, seen from Pillar

Red Pike and the view towards ScafellThe appropriately named Steeple, seen from Scoat FellIt's all downhill from here! But first - lunch. There isn't too much grass on Pillar's summit - I seem to recall my colleague being harassed by a hungry sheep (it must have thought he was a soft touch).

Sufficiently fuelled, we dropped gently down Peaty pool near Dore Head, at the end of a fine walktowards Scoat Fell, then turning sharp left we gained the last side of the horseshoe via Red Pike, to Dore Head, descending here via the scree run back to Mosedale.

An excellent day - in fact an excellent three days, despite the skies never really clearing...

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