Northumbria
July 2006
Five days in England's northernmost county
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Day 1:
Hadrian's Wall 4
miles The weather had been warm over the weekend - and it
was forecast to get warmer, with Wednesday possibly
being England's hottest July day since 1911 - not ideal weather for
walking in the hills, though we already had some ideas for coping with
the heat. In the meantime, a little entertainment for the outward
journey...

We parked at Housesteads and joined the wall for a stroll along
perhaps the most scenic stretch - armed with the bus timetable
(the appropriately-named AD122 service), we would head east, and
return by public transport.

Hotbank Crags
certainly earned their name on this afternoon; the rocky outcrop
above Crag Lough provided a fine breezy place for a break. By the
time we descended from Steel Rigg, the gentle stroll down to Once
Brewed seemed infinitely preferable to our initial intentions to
walk on to the Milestone Inn. We'd have time for a cool drink
before the bus arrived too!
 Our
overnight accommodation for this trip was near Ingram, where the
Breamish Valley leaves the hills and begins to broaden. The fine
warm evenings provided some excellent opportunities for
photography - so I'll end each day with a selection of the results
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 Day
2: Longhoughton to Seahouses
14 miles
The Cheviots will have to wait - it's going to be much too hot! We
took the car to Seahouses, and joined the coastal bus service for
a ride down to Longhoughton, where a short stroll along a quiet
road would take us to the coastal path. Not that we needed to
follow the path all the way - the low tide meant we could walk on
the shore where that was possible.

First place of significance on the route is the little fishing
harbour of Craster. Smoke billows from the roof of Robson's - and
the aroma on the breeze reminds you that it's supposed to - sadly, none of the
famous kippers appeared on any of the menus we were to see during
our trip.

A gentle - and very popular - stroll from Craster leads to the
dramatic remains of the isolated Dunstanburgh Castle. Photography
is obligatory here!
Northwards again -
now along the fine sands of Embleton bay. I have to admit that, for
half-an-hour or so, the boots and socks came off and we had a
paddle! Well, it was rather warm, despite the pleasant sea
breezes. The aforementioned breezes, wafting in off the
North Sea, gave some
hints as to what lay in store for tomorrow, as mists began to form
and drift eerily across the sands - a phenomenon that would
accompany us for most of the route back to Seahouses.
After Low
Newton-by-the-sea, to give it its correct title, the path leaves
the shore, instead winding through the dunes, with their acres of
ragwort and cinnabar moths. The separation from the sea, and that
breeze, meant that we began to feel the heat now, and it was with
some relief that we were able to rejoin the shore for the last
stretch to Beadnell. We perhaps should have caught the bus from
Beadnell - the last stretch, to Seahouses, despite a section of
shoreline, was not the highlight of this walk. I think we'd walked
far enough!
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We've had a shower, and eaten -
time for a few snaps before a well-earned pint. This evening
we ventured
a little further up the Breamish valley, where we were
rewarded by this sight of a dipper - a young one, we thought,
enjoying the evening sunshine |
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Day 3:
A trip to the Farne Islands and a walk around Lindisfarne
With the highest temperatures promised for today, we decided
to take a trip out to sea - across to the Farne Islands, to see
the noted colonies of seabirds. We almost didn't - yesterday's
mists had turned into a sea fret - it was cold and foggy in
Seahouses, to the extent that the far end of the harbour was
lost in the mist, never mind the Farne Islands. But even at
this early stage, there were signs of the sun trying to break
through - we decided to go for it.



It wasn't warm - I suspect we were the coolest people in
England as we wandered around Staple Island, the National
Trust bird reserve. But it wasn't cold either, and the main assaults
on the senses came in other forms - the noise of the nesting
birds, and the stench! A group of teenage schoolchildren were
visiting - several staggered around clutching handkerchiefs to
their noses, in an exaggerated display of disapproval at being
brought to such an appalling place! The birds didn't seem to
mind, and did their utmost to pose for our cameras.


 On
returning to Seahouses, we drove the short distance up the
coast to Lindisfarne. Low tide would be mid-afternoon, so
there would be no problems crossing the tidal causeway. I had
last visited the island some 20 years ago, again in July, and
thought what a quiet place it was. Now, tourism has really taken off,
and the short walk into the village, out past the priory, then
around to the castle, was probably one of the busiest to have
appeared
on these
pages. Beyond the castle, the trackbed of an old wagonway runs
along the North Sea coast, and we followed this to the quiet
coves to the north. Here, on England's hottest July day
ever, the beautiful sandy beaches were quite deserted, little
over half a mile from the public road. The sun had now
more-or-less burned away the remains of the sea fret, and it
was a very pleasant, not uncomfortably warm afternoon.

This was a "shortie",
perhaps 4 miles, and we were soon back to the car. We had, I
felt, made a pretty good stab at getting the best out of this
extreme weather (I was confident that tomorrow would be
cooler).
This evening's photos were taken in the quiet, gently hilly
country between Eglingham and the main A697 road, as the sun
went down behind the Cheviots.
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 Day 4:
A Cheviot Walk 11 miles
A dull, grey morning - the mist was down on the nearby hilltops as
we had our breakfasts. Nevertheless, the forecast wasn't too bad -
so we headed for the hills.
 We
followed the border northwards in the cool, damp air - a light
drizzle had developed, but it never really came to anything,
hardly worth the waterproofs. The border summits sound edible -
there's Lamb Hill, then Beefstand Hill, then (perhaps a reversal
of roles) Mozie Law. These are lonely hills - we saw just one
person throughout the entire walk, a poor chap with ski-sticks
looking desperately for some snow (and his skis). I would say
quiet too - but that's not strictly true, for the MOD ranges are
just the other side of the Coquet, and the distant artillery fire
added a certain je ne sais quoi to the walk...
 Shortly
after Mozie Law, an old (Roman, I think) way - named on maps as
"The Street" - crosses the ridge. We joined this as the weather
brightened for our return route towards to the Coquet, finally
turning right and descending to Blindburn and the car. A most
enjoyable expedition.
 Our
last evening in Northumberland - the sun lowers towards the
Cheviots, seen not far from Hedgeley
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Books and Maps:-
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