The camper van - Cowgill, DentdalePennines and Lakes

May 1988

Western Dales and the Lake District
- in a Camper Van

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Froce Gill waterfallDay 1: Whernside

Greensett GillThe previous year's trip had taken us, with a tent, to Wasdale Head. This year's trip was upmarket by comparison - I borrowed a camper van (have to say, I don't get on with tents).

We started the trip with a walk up Whernside - using the route described by Wainwright in his "Walks in Limestone Country" - and a fine walk it was too. Starting from Ribblehead, we Greensett Tarn - the sandy shorewalked past the fine waterfall at Force Gill, then by Greensett Gill with its attractive limestone edges to Greensett Tarn, before the final slog up to the ridge of Whernside.Whernside wall - the view north to Whernside Tarns

The day was fine and clear - the views excellent in all directions. This was the first time I had been able to see the Settle - Carlisle railway - both north and south of Blea Moor tunnel - from the same viewpoint!

Greensett Tarn and the view to Penyghent  Ingleborough  Ribbelehead - the sweeping curve of the viaduct

We returned to the van via Winterscales, and the strange fields of limestone boulders. A northbound train rumbled across Ribblehead viaduct as we completed an excellent half-day's wander.

Barn and buttercups, Winterscales  Limestone boulders and Ingleborough  Ribblehead and wee dug

At the start of the day - Dent villageDay 2: To the Lakes - High Street

Today we would visit the eastern heights of the Lake District - taking in their highest point at 2718', High Street, so named because of the Roman road which once ran along its summit ridge.

The route would be that described in "Fellwalking with Wainwright". Starting at Mardale Head, we would ascend via the fine rocky ridge of Rough Crag, then head south via Mardale Ill Bell and the top of Nan Bield Pass to Harter Fell. The path then descends via Gatescarth Beck to the car park.

The start of the walk - Mardale Head and Haweswater Reservoir  The Kentmere fells - Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke  Nan Bield pass - the zigzags

This was another great walk, although the weather was not quite so good for photography - my camera stayed in its case most of the day.

Small Water and Haweswater  Call this a cairn? Harter Fell summit  Gatesgarth - looking back to Rough Crag and Harter Fell

We drove on after our walk to Pooley Bridge, where we stayed the night. The light was by now much improved - time for some more photos....

Fishing from the jetty, Pooley Bridge  Evening light, Ullswater  Fisherman, Pooley Bridge

  Ullswater  Through the leaves, Ullswater

Day 3: Blencathra - nearly!

The light was just a bit too good the previous evening - a dull, damp day dawned, with a low cloud base and steady rain

Steaming through the rain, DerwentwaterWe headed for Keswick, where a pleasurable stroll could be had along the lake shore, whilst killing time and hoping for a change in the weather...

Mist over Blencathra...which came gradually after lunch - the rain stopped and the cloud lifted a little, though the tops were still well into the mist. We had decided upon another of Wainwright's recommendations - Blencathra from Threlkeld. The route follows a bee-line for the summit via the steep and rocky Hall's Fell - the distance is relatively small, but the climb substantial. Some time had passed by the time we reached the higher. narrower part of the ridge, Narrow Edge. Greasy rocks and a misty outlook, BlencathraThe cloud remained, however - we were into the mist, and the rocks were greasy from the recent rain, and there wouldn't be any sort of view from the summit....

We turned back! It didn't take long to get back to the camper, parked at Threlkeld, and we were soon on our way to (the northern) Troutbeck, where we would park up for the night. Pulling on the handbrake, we looked back at Blencathra - its summit now, of course, in clear sunshine.... Ever made the wrong decision?

Nine Standards RiggDay 4: Home again - via Nine Standards Rigg

And that was it - just the journey Limestone scenery near Nine Standards Riggacross the Pennines to return the van. "I've never been up to Nine Standards Rigg - shall we go and have a look?". The Rigg, high above Kirkby Stephen, looks north to the Cross Fell range and the Eden Valley. No-one is quite sure why the cairns stand there - perhaps to deter raiders from the north?

Books and maps:-

Wainwrights: The Whernside walk is in "Walks in Limestone Country", High Street is in the "Far Eastern Fells", and Blencathra is in the "Northern Fells".
OL2 "Yorkshire Dales: Southern and Western Areas" includes Whernside, and both the Lake District walks are on the "English Lakes - North Eastern Area"

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