Day 1: Ingleton - Dent

Not a good day, weather-wise. It was dull and cool as we climbed slowly out of Ingleton, and up the long shoulder of Whernside, and before long, a steady rain began, keeping up for the entire journey. We stood to eat our lunches at the summit, before dropping to Dentdale.

Curiously, like so many limestone country rivers, the bed of the Dee seemed the driest part of the valley as we made our way down to the village of Dent. There wasn't much to do in the rain - fortunately there are two good pubs, the George and Dragon, and the Sun - so the rain wasn't a disaster.

Day 2: Dent - Hawes

Today we would head back up Dentdale to Arten Gill, there taking the path under what was always reckoned to be the "prettiest" viaduct on the Settle - Carlisle railway. The path rises to cross the ridge which, dividing the waters between the Dee and Widdale Beck (which feeds into the Ure near Hawes), thus forms part of the main English watershed.

We had left Dent in that kind of murky gloom which often follows heavy rain. Gradually however the day improved, so that by the time we reached the top of the pass, it was a fine, warm, sunny afternoon. So instead of descending into Widdale, we continued our ascent onto Widdale Fell, following the edge of the fell toward Hawes, before ultimately descending to the beck and, after a short road walk, crossing through the fields into Hawes.

Day 3: Hawes - Horton-in-Ribblesdale

The route for today was the Pennine Way - southwards via Dodd Fell and Cam Fell to the pothole country in Ribblesdale.

This was one of those fresh, breezy days when it's great to be up on the tops (despite a little shower, barely sufficient for waterproofs). The path crosses the fields from Hawes to Gayle on a stone-slabbed way, then climbs steadily up to Ten End, with magnificent views over Wensleydale providing plenty of excuses for a breather.

Once the latter summit is reached, the route continues at a fairly constant height for some distance across the bleak, lonely country between the eastern dales and the Ribble. Gradually the descent begins to the fascinating pothole country just to the north of Horton, and here we spent some time exploring the surface and, in the case of Browgill cave, venturing a little way inside.

Day 4: Horton-in-Ribblesdale - Ingleton

For the last leg of our journey, we crossed the limestone landscape of Sulber to ascend Ingleborough, before descending via Crina Bottom to Ingleton.

There are still many acres of limestone pavement in Yorkshire, despite the ravages of quarrying and the collection of surface rocks for gardens - here are some of the finest, and we vowed to return and spend a bit more time exploring and photographing this unique landscape (see camera walk "Ingleborough").

Leaving the pavements behind, the path climbs gently beside Simon Fell, reaching the summit of Ingleborough via a short steeper section. Time for lunch, and a chance to study the view for one last time. A steep descent of the south-west face (!) took us down by the beautifully-situated farm of Crina Bottom - well hidden from the main roads, but passed by many thousands of walkers each year.

Finally, we arrived in Ingleton via Storrs - just in time for the sky to really clear! Nevertheless, it had been an excellent trip, with plenty of variety in the scenery and some good overnight stops. Must do it again some time!

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